Same same but different

    As the plane descended into Saigon the view out of my window was of round fishing boats bobbing in the South China sea their lights together creating a constellation of white light.  I had seen these same scenes when I first came to this country in 2006.  They were a comforting reminder. All travelers must have similar feelings on returning to this part of the world.  Maybe they remember the smell of incense in the morning mixed with smoke from fires, or the smell of raw sewage mixed with something else.  Vietnam is a total assault on the senses when you leave the comfort of dry air and air conditioning. 

    I walked out of the airport in to thick air filled with smoke and humidity.  Like clockwork Tai, my guide/former student quickly whisked away from the airport in a car.   Cars seem to becoming much more common here than before.  I only have 2006 as comparison.  This country is moving foreword so fast that it is hard to really keep track of the pace of development.  After disposing of my stuff it was off to a restaurant of Tai's choosing.  Everyone eats better then Americans.  As much as we are slowly improving what we eat, in Vietnam they are just on another level.  They are truly using what is around them to make some incredible food.    An hour after getting off the plane and being served ice cold Tiger beer and snails?  Yes please.  Two types, the first being black and the size of a fingernail, to even get the meat out you needed to use a safety pin.  As I was being propositioned by a gay makeup artist/owner I was served fresh water snails which were bigger and totally mind blowing.  Yes a snail can be mind blowing.  Most people who have eaten snails know that they have a earthy aftertaste which for some is to much.  I was expecting the same when I bit into these.  The exact opposite.  These were fresh and totally without any aftertaste.  With salty chili and lime dipping sauce they were the real hit of the meal.  We rounded out the meal with some grilled shrimp and chicken wings drenched in garlic and fish sauce, the kind that are becoming well known through Pok Pok wings in NYC.  These wings should make Buffalo wild wings consider their whole sales strategy.  This city on just the first night is exploding with fresh ingredients and passionate eaters.  It is good to be back in Vietnam.