Thursday, August 16, 2012

A true garden feast Đặc sản Trảng Bàng


Đc sn Trng Bàng is my favorite Vietnamese dish.  Vietnamese food is so much more than just Pho and spring rolls.  It has a vast array of do it your self-dishes that allow you to keep your taste buds guessing about what will come next.  In my time here again in Saigon I have gone to two of these types of restaurants that specialize in this dish.  This dish is from the Trng Bàng province of Vietnam and is a very simple idea.  Take boiled pork or beef tendon, rice paper that has been softened by the condensation on your glass and then fill with a garden of different vegetables and herbs.  This is such fresh and healthy food that you can eat a lot and not ever feel like you are bloated or too full.  What you see in the first pictures is the vegetable plate.  It consists of a type of spring onion, lettuce, basil, saw tooth coriander, perilla and two of my new favorite additions.  This restaurant supposedly sourced veggies and herbs from the wild.  I can’t speak to the provenance of them but I will say there were surprises.   

If you look closely in the picture you will see a reddish-brown and green leaf.  This is the leaf of the star fruit tree and tastes like an unripe star fruit.  This was the first really great revelation.  The second came with this leaf. 

This leaf is in the same family of basil but has a very deep anise flavor to it.  Both of these added to the wraps with such a new dimension of flavor.  Of course the dish is also served with cucumber, pickled daikon, and a bit of chili and then you dip it into Nước mm and you’re off to the races.  This place is called Hoàng Ty I.  It is a bit of a ways outside of the city center but is worth checking out because it is right along the Saigon river and you can watch the sunset go down while munching on amazing rolls.


After finding this first place I was now on the scent to find another place that was a bit closer to the city center.  One of best websites about Vietnamese food in Saigon is Noodlepie.com.  This man must have an uncanny knowledge of Vietnamese or some great contacts.  He has scoured the city and found many a great place. http://www.noodlepie.com/blog/banh_trang/index.html I looked at his website for a place in the city that served this same dish and it took me here.   



It was another excellent meal and was served with even more stuff.  Not only was the plate of herbs and vegetables overflowing, the other plates contained green banana, unripe star fruit, pineapple and picked radishes besides the pickled daikon and carrot.  The winner for me was the addition of fresh peppercorns which when you bite into them give you a little spicy jolt.   

I also ordered some oysters to see what a Vietnamese oysters tasted like.  These were the meatiest oysters I have had.  They were big, dense and required a lot of chewing, different than the ones that I normally just shoot back with a squeeze of lemon.  There were limes available but I choose to use a bit of fish sauce instead.  Oysters taste really good with a bit of Nưc mm on them.   



This place is awesome and almost better than the place by the river.  The only drawback is it is on one of the busiest thoroughfares in the city and is really noisy.  I say put up with the noise and let the crunch of the vegetables drown out the sounds of the motorbikes.  

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